What are these white threads on my kimono, haori, michiyuki, etc.?
If you’ve ever purchased a new or unworn vintage kimono (きもの|着物), haori (羽織), michiyuki (道行), or other traditional Japanese garment, you may have noticed long stitches in a very delicate white thread running along the edges of the garment, such as hemline, sleeves, collars, etc.
These are called shitsuke ito (仕付け糸) or basting stitches.
When a garment is first made, these basting stitches are sewn into the fabric. You will also find these stitches in garments that have been freshly washed.
Their primary function is to keep the layers of the garment flat, prevent bunching or wrinkling, and ensure that the garment remains in perfect shape during storage, whether brand new or cleaned, and put away for future use.
If you find a kimono with shitsuke ito still intact, it is a sign that the garment has likely never been worn or was carefully stored after cleaning. However, these stitches should always be removed before wearing the garment.
These are not to be confused with small decorative white prickstitches called kazari jitsuke (飾り仕付け), which are commonly found on kurotomesode (黒留袖) on the collar, hemline, and sleeve openings. They are easily identified by the evenly spaced and tiny stitches.
If the stitches are long and pierce both the lining and the shell visibly, then they are shitsuke ito and should be removed.
Not sure if they are shitsuke ito? Contact us with a photo and we will help you determine if they are!